Pizzeria Americano: Alex Sanchez’s new pizza parlour in Kala Ghoda is worth the queue

It's 5.25 pm and a queue has already started forming outside Pizzeria Americano, which opens at 5.30 pm and is barely a fortnight old. It is a sign of the following chef Alex Sanchez has built in Mumbai. The San Francisco-raised chef first came to India to helm The Table when it opened in 2011.

He has since co-founded Americano (2019), Otra (2024) and now Pizzeria Americano with his wife and business partner, restaurateur Mallyeka Watsa. All three restaurants are in Kala Ghoda. Like his earlier ventures, the latest one is also a reflection of where the couple are in their lives – now parents to a two-year-old son, Nirvaan.

While Americano is a neighbourhood gathering space with an Italian leaning, and Otra draws from Sanchez's Latin American and Puerto Rican heritage, the pizzeria reflects a different side of him. Once inside, what stands out is the long, open stainless-steel bar counter that extends into the kitchen, where Sanchez can be seen stretching out pizza dough.

He prefers to personally handle most of the pizzas, particularly during the first few hours of service, to understand how the dough is behaving and make adjustments to the oven temperature or other settings, if needed. A little after 7 pm, the lights dim, the chatter gets louder and the space takes on a more animated, peppy energy.

Located in the over-100-year-old Raja Bahadur Mansion, the restaurant retains elements of the original structure, including exposed teak rafters, brickwork and parts of the old flooring. The vibe is that of a neighbourhood pizza parlour where you could drop in with friends or bring your children, except that the food, drinks and service are a notch more considered.

The menu opens with cocktail bites, salads and share plates. One dish you shouldn't miss is the salmon crudo. The broth has an interesting Indian flavour profile, while the cucumber and cured salmon lend it a refreshing lightness.

The mushroom ceviche, made with sunchoke and oyster mushrooms, comes with a herbaceous, spicy jalapeño sauce. The mozzarella sticks are another must-order. Breaking into one reveals the much-anticipated cheese pull, but what makes them work is that they aren't greasy or rubbery.

Served with a light, warm marinara sauce, they are a good example of how much thought has gone into seemingly familiar fare. Sanchez spent considerable time experimenting with different types of mozzarella, coatings, batters and breadcrumbs before arriving at this version.

The thin, house-made French fries, served with ketchup and ranch dressing, are another comforting addition that we kept going back to. The cocktails are equally well thought out. The Margherita Margarita is almost like having pizza in a glass, with watermelon balancing the tanginess.

The Penicillin is a balanced, lemony and gingery cocktail, with hazelnut lending a gentle sweetness. The espresso martini, topped with pistachio and coffee foam, is among the smoothest we've had and leaves one wanting another.

The pizzas are undoubtedly the centrepiece. The selection of 15 includes the spicy Angry Bird, the mushroom-forward Shroomami, Char Siu Chicken, which borrows from Chinese barbecue flavours, and the Kejriwal, an ode to the iconic Willingdon Club preparation.

Sanchez describes his style as somewhere between New York and Neapolitan, leaning towards California-style pizza. He wanted a crust that was tender and airy, with enough structure and crunch, rather than the softer Neapolitan-style pizzas at Americano.

Getting there took three to four months of trials. The dough uses a blend of locally grown flours, with considerable experimentation around fermentation, ageing and temperatures. Most of the cheeses are sourced from Indian artisanal producers, while San Marzano tomatoes are imported.

The ingredient-first philosophy is evident in the Golden State, named after California, where Sanchez grew up. Made with San Marzano tomato sauce, burrata, basil and olive oil, it is deceptively simple. There is no unnecessary piling on of toppings, allowing each ingredient to hold its own.

What is particularly impressive is that it tastes just as good even when cold. Despite being quite full, we polish off three slices. Dips help finish the crust, while chilli condiments let you spice up the pizzas as you like.

We particularly liked the chilli crunch, an almost salsa-like preparation of chillies and nuts, and the pickled chillies. There are thoughtful touches beyond the food, too. Pizzas are served on custom-made stainless-steel plates, reminiscent of the ubiquitous thalis in Indian households.

The tiny, adorable espresso cups and saucers, as well as the ceramic plates and glasses, are custom-made in Sri Lanka. Desserts bring the experience to a familiar close. Sanchez understands Mumbai's enduring love for a sizzling brownie with vanilla ice cream and has his own version on the menu.

There is also a New York-style cheesecake and butterscotch pudding. The Affogato Radio Ball is an interesting variation on the classic, pairing an icy espresso preparation with fior di latte soft serve and mascarpone mousse.

We also end with a standalone espresso, served in one of the most adorable tiny cups, which works well alongside the desserts. What Pizzeria Americano gets right is the balance between being a casual neighbourhood hangout and a place where the food is taken seriously.

Sanchez isn't trying to reinvent pizza or cater to every nostalgic preference. Instead, he offers his interpretation of what a good pizza parlour should be: welcoming, lively and unpretentious, with thoughtful service, carefully sourced ingredients and flavours that don't need to shout to make an impression.

We see ourselves going back to try more dishes. Heena Khandelwal is a Special Correspondent with The Indian Express, Mumbai. She covers a wide range... Read More